Vis, An Island Untouched
Exploring the oasis of Vis.
Pristine, raw, natural beauty. These were all things I read upon arriving to the Island of Vis. I was really excited to spend the next few days taking it all in. However, the misfortune of a minor food poisoning gave us exactly a day and half to explore. Without sparing anytime, and as soon as our respective bouts over our Airbnb toilet passed, we headed out for some adventure.
A trip to Stiniva Beach
The real magic of this island extends outside the main town roads - the untouched landscape is home to secluded coves and beaches. Since scootering around Korcula classified us as experienced riders, we were quick to rent a scooter and head out.
To Michael’s delight and my dismay, accessing Stiniva Beach required a quick, steep hike down to the water. I wasn’t particularly enthused about incorporating a hike into our Vis Island plans, but on an unexpected turn I got a first glimpse of Stiniva Beach and was immediately taken away.
Believed to once be a cave that collapsed, stark charcoal cliffs surround a white pebble beach, with small coves on either side. The waters just off the coast glimmered like diamonds as the sun beamed down. As we inched our way closer to sea level, the beach became alive with other visitors happily enjoying the sun and swimming through the coves. We were quick to choose a spot close to the water, trying to prevent the dreadful barefoot walk on the rocks that are custom to the beaches in Croatia.
The first dip into the water sent instant energy through my body and felt like the second reawakening of the day. As soon as I plunged my head under the water, I felt immediately engulfed in summer. There’s something about cold water on a hot day that feels therapeutic, even freeing. As the chilliness started to subside and I allowed myself to float with the gentle waves. Eventually I began to make my way back to the beach, feeling the saltiness of the water gently stick to my skin and smelling the faint scent of sea in my hair. I don’t usually spend a ton of time in the water when we go to the beach given my affliction for rapid coldness, but the waters here kept drawing me back. We bobbed around the water, watched boats trickle around the cove, and admired the serene landscape.
A Peka Experience at Roki’s
Roki’s had been a restaurant on our list since we booked Vis. After many calls and a quick drop in, we were able to secure a reservation for our last evening. The restaurant specializes in one dish, peka. Commonly seen in Croatia, peka is made by combining a protein, veggies, herbs, oils, and rice in a large skillet, covering it with glowing coal embers, and slow cooking over an open flame. The result is a smoky, paella-like dish that we couldn’t wait to try. We were asked about our protein selection when we confirmed our reservation, giving the restaurant ample time to prep. Without debate, we chose octopus.
When we arrived, the host led us around the kitchen and described the delicate process of creating this Croatian staple. A fire crackled in the distance as we took in the 10+ skillets buried in embers, slowly cooking the proteins inside.
Our seats were tucked away in the trees in a what felt like someone’s backyard. Two shots of grappa were brought out as a welcoming gift and we clinked our glasses together, exclaiming živjeli to the meal to come.
As soon as the large skillet was put down at the table, smells of garlic and salt filled the air around us. We were greeted by a tender and tasty bite of octopus, enriched with smoky flavors from the embers. The rice absorbed the oceanic juiciness of the octopus and the moisture zestiness of the vegetables from the skillet, which was the perfect pairing for the protein. Our first peka experience was everything we hoped for and we spent the evening talking about building a fire pit in our future home’s backyard.
We managed to squeeze in a few other meals and activities during our trip to Vis. The old town itself is a walking paradise and the buildings are immaculate. While it was short, I cherished the magic of this secluded island and hope to be back. Below are some of our favorite place and best memories from Vis.
