A Culinary Journey Through Istria

Europe’s best kept food secret.

Food is the unspoken language in Istria, a Croatian region rich in flavor. Truffles are the crown jewel but the preparations, techniques, and flavors we discovered were beyond our expectations. Meticulous plans had been developed to ensure a collective food experience but we also stumbled upon a few gems tucked away from the typical crowds.

Fish House in Rovinj

There’s something special about tasting fresh seafood steps away from the water. The gentle sound of the waves colliding with the stones created a calm melody as we unwrapped our lunch from Fish House, a local seafood joint serving up creative plates like anchovy bao buns and shark skewers.

We kept things simple and ordered the tuna tacos.  My first bite punched my tastebuds with tangy pickled cabbage paired with the creamy avocado. Seared tuna slowly melted in my mouth. These fresh ingredients were wrapped up in a thin tortilla, with a slight char that reminded Michael of the Korean Pork Tacos of Chubby Noodle in SF (always thinking about asian food…). We ate in silence, a clear sign of our contentment, only breaking to talk about how many more times would we visit Fish House over the course of our stay.

Mali Raj in Rovinj

Tucked away in the side streets of Old Town Rovinj, a small patio was decorated with interwoven vines that created an unassuming, cozy restaurant. I knew that our itinerary would be inundated with truffles over the coming days so I opted for the grilled calamari plate with a side of seafood risotto. The preparation and care that went into these seafood dishes could be tasted on the plate. The octopus was delicate and smooth, with the right amount of char that created smoky notes. Simple herbs and olive oil elevated the fish flavor and I was reluctant to share with Michael. We did split the risotto, which has arguably been one of the best I’ve ever had. While many risotto dishes tend to error on cream or chewiness, this al dente dish highlighted the fresh shrimp and juicy tomato.

Putalina in Rovinj

Every Rovinj food blog writes about Putalina. Whether it’s the blissful experience of sitting on the water or the fresh taste of the seafood, Putalina definitely deserves all the acclaim it receives. The restaurant is quite literally on the water, carved on a rockface just a few steps from the Adriatic Sea. We were a little hesitant to try given the tourist hype around the restaurant, but the experience did not disappoint.

Some might call it over ordering but we were too excited about the menu to not try multiple dishes. In true Epstein fashion, we started with the carpaccio and seafood pasta.

The carpaccio was prepared with thinly sliced sea bream, decorated with leafy micro greens and drizzled in citrus and olive oil. This was the dish that I lobbied for as we were selecting our meal. If carpaccio is on a menu, I’m quick to suggest it. When I took my first bite, the mild flavor of the fish absorbed the earthy micro green taste and melted in my mouth. The only thing that could make this first course better was the seafood pasta that came next. A bowl of large cylinder-shaped noodles captured a rich tomato sauce.  Shrimp, mussels, octopus and other juicy chunks of white fish were delicately mixed around the noodles, creating a maze of salty textures. Pre-trip, I wasn’t much of a seafood pasta eater. After my time in Croatia, I seriously question why.

For the mains, my plate of sea bass was covered in a creamy truffle sauce with freshly shaved truffles on top. The umami flavors counterbalanced the flaky white fish, creating a perfectly balanced dish. Michael got the olive crusted sea bass which looked similar to a crab cake. The juiciness of the sea bass counterbalanced the dry crunch of olive bread crumbs, creating dynamic surprises with every bite. The expertly drizzled green sauce and tomatoes complimented the saltiness, and both dishes were licked clean.

Chiavalon Extra Virgin Olive Oil in Rovinj

Swirl, breathe, slurp, repeat. Who knew there was such a rigorous method to tasting olive oil? Definitely not me. Chiavalon is a well known olive oil producer in the region and the farm was located just outside Pula. We arrived at the small shop surrounded by olive groves and lawn chairs. Inside, an assortment of jams, figs, and juices neatly lined a wall. Opposite that was a long, sleek bar featuring the six olive of the olive oils produced. We started with a delicate sample that was fresh and bright, making our way to more complex olive oils that had earthy flavors. The slurping of the olive oils was an important step in the process as is separates the fat from flavor in your mouth. However, it can create a spicy taste down the throat that initiated a few coughing fits and some teary eyes. Side effects aside, it didn’t deter us from appreciating the subtle nuances between each slurp.

After the tasting, we decided to sit out on the lawn chairs to take in the expansive views of olive groves and open land. The owner brought out complimentary sparkling malvasia, the cherry on top to a lovely experience.

Batelina in Banjole

Fishermen head out before dawn, intent on catching sea bass, tuna, and other fish-fair found on Konoba menus. But what happens to the abundance of non sellable fish caught during those early mornings? Batelina aims to showcase the preparation of the “other” fish, which are usually eaten by the fishermen after everything else is sold. Once a quiet restaurant, Batelina received fame when chef and celebrity Mate Jankovic showcased the establishment to Anthony Bourdain on an episode of No Reservations in 2011. Side note - this episode proved to be a great source of inspiration for our time in Istria.

As we sat down, our server came to us with no menus in hand. He gave a broad description of the “cold starter” fish dish and highly recommended it. Not giving us any other options, we obediently agreed and waited in anticipation. Wine was poured, a 0.5L liter of local Ozjusko beer was cracked, we admired the restaurant situated in a small home overlooking the water. Soon after, ten small dishes filled our table with unique plates like sliced monkfish, white bream, and fish pate. Each bite was soft on the palette and unique in flavor.

Later, a plate of fresh fish was brought to our table which featured a range of foreign creatures ready to be cooked. Our server pointed to a sharp-spined red fish that was indeed poisonous when alive but also came highly rated when grilled. This was our official introduction to scorpionfish. While I would never like to encounter a scorpionfish while snorkeling, my curiosity took hold and we ordered it. Filleted in two pieces, the fish was a flaky like a white fish but also had a texture of shellfish, like crab. It was delicious. Michael and I agreed this was the best and most unique meal of our time in Istria and an absolute must for any adventurous seafood lover.

Natura Ltd. in Bujet

After our truffle hunting experience, we were rewarded with lunch. Fritaja is a local dish, made by layering scrambled eggs, delicate cheese and fresh truffles. It may sound strange to mix eggs and truffles, but just one bite had me hooked. To accompany this, we sampled a variety of dips, oils, sauces, and beer - all made with truffles. One of my favorite spreads was the porcini truffle tapenade - the potency of the chopped mushroom complimented the delicate truffle pieces really well. I was persistent (and successful) in purchasing a jar. Finally, a small tray of chocolates and jams was presented, again all made with truffles. We let the truffle chocolate and sea salt melt in our mouths as the flavors combined to perfection.

Konoba Mondo in Motovun

Another Anthony Bourdain feature and absolute must was Konoba Mondo. Perched above the tiny hilltop of Motovun is a small restaurant with cream walls and blue accents. They are known for their incorporation of fresh truffles from the surrounding forests into their dishes. We started with the beef carpaccio, covered with freshly shaven summer truffles. The meat was light and the truffles were earthy, a delightful combination when paired together. I ordered pork chops and crunchy polenta, which is a bit out of the ordinary for my fish-ordering tendencies. It didn’t disappoint.

Michael ordered the truffle pasta and when the large bowl was presented, I could smell the truffles instantly from across the table. Cream sauce covered a healthy portion of Tagliatelle with an even healthier portion of black truffles shaved on top. After a few bites of his dish, it was easy for me to say that this was my favorite truffle pasta in Istria. The sauce was intoxicating and the truffles were nutty. However, amidst Michael’s smile in the photo, he had a different opinion on the champion truffle pasta - more on that next.

Wine Intermission

Did I mention that Istria also specializes in wine? While not quite Napa, this region produces a variety of wines that are mostly sold to the surrounding Baltic countries. They boast about their orange wine production, which started long before the American millennials’ fascination with this style. We found Clai, a small winery specializing in different varietals of orange wine as well as natural wines. Being the only customers there, we took advantage by touring the space, lounging at the tables, and tasting all the wines they had open.

Wine from Kozlovic Winery was served at nearly every restaurant and wine bar in Istria so we found it only fitting to check out this winery next. In contrast to Clai, their tasting room + patio buzzed with an abundance of visitors frolicking around the property and taking IG photos of their protruding balcony over the vineyards (we caved as well in the last photo). Malvasia is their specialty and we agreed that is super refreshing. It reminded us of the light butter notes of a chardonay but crispier, like a Sonoma Vally sauvy b.

Konoba Stari Podrum in Momjan

On our last night in Istria, we found ourselves sitting at a busy garden restaurant, lined with green trees and lush floral. Remember how I said Michael deemed another restaurant with the best truffle pasta? As this pasta was placed on our table, he lit up with excitement. The creamy sauce of the pasta was a bit lighter which allowed the truffle to take power in the dish. The noodle itself, Fuzi, he argued was more suited to hold the light cream sauce than Konoba Mondo’s tagliatelle. Fuzi looks like a larger penne with a little excess noodle folded around the tube like a napkin. We also got a vegetable carpaccio, with thinly sliced zucchinis, fresh herbs, and a dollop of ricotta. I really wasn’t kidding about my love for carpaccio dishes.

That was a lot of eating in four days, but we made it through.

The freshness of the ingredients stood out during our time in Istria, making each meal a bit more special. The fish, the truffle, the wine. It’s a region that was designed for hedonists. Beyond the food, the hospitality and overall excitement for food made this trip unforgettable. Each person we encountered had an immense appreciation for the land and food created from it. Stories were told about their own relationship to the ingredients. They reveled in sharing their knowledge with visitors and were quick to offer recommendations of their own favorite establishments in the area. Again and again, we would receive small notes with inexplicably good handwriting of various places we had to try during our time in Istria. While we couldn’t get to all of them, it gives us the perfect excuse to come back.