Zrnovo, a Culinary Gem in Hiding
Came hungry, left happy.
We had two days between Korcula and Hvar that hadn’t been planned, and we were hopeful to find a hidden gem off the beaten path. Zrnovo was just that and more. This tiny village is located just a few kilometers up the hill from Old Town Korcula and doesn’t attract the typical tourism. I stumbled across a blog that described Zrnovo as romantic and organic, two words that I couldn’t resist. We found a tiny backhouse that an older couple was renting on Airbnb, and their small garden in the backyard sold us. Soon, we were making our way up to our new home for the next two days.
After a slight misstep with directions that led us to be picked-up by a friendly local and delivered like an Amazon package, we arrived at a cozy Croatian home with a motherly figure waving from the sidewalk. She warmly introduced herself as our host and gave us a tour of her tiny oasis. The neighborhood was quiet, lined with older stone homes and tucked along the hills side. We settled in and I spent the afternoon on a lounge chair in the backyard, gazing at the fresh produce and reading my book. It rained on and off throughout the day which created a cooler climate and a slower pace to enjoy the serene environment.
We didn’t make any plans aside from booking our accommodation, giving us the opportunity to discover places outside the ‘best restaurant’ on Google . Our host recommended Konoba Belin when we arrived, so after a lackadaisical afternoon we ventured out for dinner.
Cevapcici (cevapi). A dish I didn’t know I needed but will now always look for while we’re in Croatia. The Balkan-style sausage is packed with rich flavors of garlic and paprika and grilled to perfection. A large plate of these were accompanied by a rumpsteak, which was we unapologetically scarfed down. To appease my daily fish craving, we complimented this large plate of meat with a fish soup and octopus salad.
While we were two tourists just passing through town, I felt like we were surrounded by a warmth radiating from others at the restaurant. Our server struck up conversation and casually joked with us throughout the evening, making us feel welcomed. He brought out various grappas, giving us the chance to sip new flavors. And took a shot with us as well. Additional dishes outside our order showed up at our table, which we couldn’t pass up. Everything felt authentic - this was definitely a meal to be remembered.
Delighted by this experience, we decided to pursue another local recommendation for lunch the following day. Eko Skoj was categorized as a ‘food producer.’ This family owned business started as an organic food farm, primarily used to feed the family. As the family began to put more time and dedication into their craft, the farm sprouted into a business. They opened up their patio to guests and served local dishes made from their land. In addition to the patio, there was a small room in the back of the house, storing dried fruits, fresh produce, recently bottled olive oils, and more. In between a table of cherries and a crate of newly-harvested green onions was a small wooden table with two seats. Here, we would be having lunch.
Our server was one of the daughters and she greeted us with a big, friendly smile. She led us around the room and told us about her family’s endeavor. Before seating us, she brought us to a small table with over 20 bottles, filled with grappa that was been infused with various flavors from their garden. Berries, honey, vanilla, and walnuts were just a few options that stuck out but I was drawn to the fig grappa which was sweet as it hit my mouth, followed by a smooth finish.
When we sat down, fresh nut bread was provided as a vehicle for the array of homemade olive oils on our plates. Light, zesty, and spicy. We probably would have purchased multiple bottles if we had a place to pack them. Two appetizer plates were presented shortly after. We nibbled on shaved zucchini carpaccio, marinated in a basil olive oil and fresh dill. Accompanying this was pea pate with crushed walnuts which officially converted us into pea enthusiasts. For the main dish, lamb was served with candied carrots and roasted potatoes. The tenderness of the lamb paired with the perfect potato crunch filled our stomachs and we ate with immense satisfaction.
Altruistic is the almost too perfect word to describe our experience at Eko Skoj. You could taste the way that each ingredient was cared for and handled from their garden to plate. Savory flavors filled each bite with tiny notes of perfectly paired herbs that rounded out a dish. The daughter who assisted us throughout the meal was kind and spoke with a undisputed appreciation for what her family created. She also eagerly provided food recommendations for Istria, a region we mentioned was next up on our travels.
Eko Skoj was a special place that immediately captured our hearts and stomachs. This, I thought, was why we are traveling. Across the world, away from the crowds, a family pours their love and energy into their food. They generously share their craft with the community and visitors without the expectation of praise or reviews. We were lucky to stumble upon this place and assured ourselves of a return visit on an unknown day in the distant future.
