Road Trippin’ Through Portugal
Small moments on a Portuguese joyride.
Sometimes you just crave the freedom and exploration of a road trip. Being unconstrained - almost boundless - creates this feeling of opportunity; a chance to experience something you didn’t know existed. The spontaneity of impromptu stops to discover serene landscapes, charming artisanal shops, and mouthwatering bites invigorate the soul. When we learned about the expansive coastline of Portugal during our trip planning, we knew this would be the perfect place to explore. And through our 500 mile journey, we were not disappointed. There was an airiness that inflated as we ignited our car engine and watched Lisbon become a small dot in our rearview window.
Douro discoveries
After a day of wine tasting in Douro Valley, we needed a place to stay. Given our type-A nature, finding an Airbnb on the fly wasn’t how Michael and I usually travelled but we were optimistic. We scrolled through the Airbnb page and found a small bed and breakfast in the town of Boquerios - home to exactly 1,957 residents. Without any expectations we hit Reserve and set out for our first adventure.
Boquerios had exactly one main roundabout, one grocery store, and a few small restaurants sprinkled across the narrow roads. It wasn’t on any blogger ‘must see’ list but that didn’t deter our curiosity. Getting to the Airbnb wasn’t as simple as inputting the address in Google. Instead, we followed fragmented commands typed in an Airbnb message. ‘Slight left after church’ and ‘right over hill’ finally led us to a small pink home tucked in the the hills. We stepped out of our car and found ourselves surrounded by lush greenery and budding vineyards that carved down the mountainside. The faint hum of the Douro River below blended in with the sounds of cicadas. Did we just book a stay at a winery? I wasn’t exactly sure where we were but I immediately felt at ease.
A Portuguese white varietal twinkled from two glasses as our host Jose as his wife Elda greeted us at the front door. When we walked in, the fruity aroma of fermentation blended with smells of cork. This in fact confirmed that we were staying at a winery. While speaking with Jose and Elda, we learned that the property had winemaking origins that dated over a century. The family recently purchased the property, opened a small b&b for travelers, and started experimenting with their own wine production skills - resulting in the glass in our hands. Jose noted the large barrel arches in the entryway that remained intact for decades and then guided us across the property. He pointed out various varietals planted alongside fresh citrus trees and we soon found ourselves in the harvest room before we even put our bags away. Here the grape selection, crushing, and processing were all done by hand - just Jose and one other winemaker. He wasn’t naive to the hard work and dedication behind the dreamy facade of winemaking and casually joked about his firsthand experiences over the past few years. As we sipped the wine and listened intently, we could hear and taste his admiration. There was a certain glow radiating from his words and realism in his conversation that left us charmed.
It had been a busy couple of weeks in Lisbon and Porto so we seized the opportunity to relax. We purchased a bottle of the family’s wine for €5 and enjoyed a home cooked meal on the patio. Afterwards we explored the grounds, winding our way through the vineyards and taking in the smells of the fresh oranges. It’s moments like this where time slows, my senses heighten, and I find real gratitude for our travels. We’ve taken an opportunity to temporarily pause our fast-paced lives at home to soak in small moments like this in countries around the world. In these first three months, I have felt a small but notable shift in my appreciation for moving slower. I get to take in more culture, taste different flavors, and really savor the present moment.
In the morning, we came out to the patio to sip on coffee and read, absorbing in the magnificent views one final time. An hour passed when we heard a the faint honk of a car. As we peaked towards the front yard, we saw a small crowd gathering in front of a white van, with change in their hands. A local baker drove through town every morning with fresh bread and pastries for sale. We purchased a croissant and an apple pastry and finished reading while enjoying these treats - a sweet way to end and unforgettable 24 hours.
Admiring the Alentejo coast
The Algarve is the Instagram darling of Portugal and I won’t deny its allure. But the Alentejo region surprised us with a serene landscape, quaint towns, and phenomenal beaches. The natural beauty of the area, just south of Lisbon, brimmed with endless sunshine and dramatic cliffs. We stopped at Praia da Samoqueira beach one morning, intent on staying just for a quick snack on the beach. When we got there, our minds quickly changed. Soft golden sand weaved along the coast, creating small coves of crystal waters. Dark rock formations rose from some of these coves and we knew we had found our spot for the entire day. We shimmy’d our bathing suits on in the car and made our way down to the beach.
I was floating in the water, my body slowly adjusting to the frigid temperatures when I realized this might be my first time in the Atlantic Ocean. I’ve had my fair amount of trips to the east coast and have traveled to the Caribbean, but I don’t think I’ve actually been into the literal Atlantic Ocean. As a first timer, I’ll admit it was much colder than I expected. When I first plunged in, my body felt like it had submerged into an ice bath as the icy temperature squeezed my muscles. But when I resurfaced, I felt a new energy in my body.
In the late afternoon, we packed up our bags knowing we had one more beach to see. We headed south to Cavaleiro where dark, jagged rocks pierced into opalescent waters. As we walked on the path up to the cliff, pristine sand with calm waters warmly greeted us. But the best part? Hardly anyone was there. We descended steep stairs that had been carved out of the rock formation and got to a beach that Michael debated was more picturesque than what we had experienced on Milos.
The small towns in between
Among the lush vineyards and breathtaking coastline were tiny towns that greeted us with surprising tastes and distinct hospitality. We spent an early morning walking on the majestic castle walls of Obidos, taking in the medieval charm of the area. I went on a run through the outskirts of the town and loved getting lost in the hilly farmlands covered in apple orchards and bountiful gardens. In the afternoon we made our way to Nazare and relished in the vast ocean. As we sat on at the Farol da Nazare lighthouse, we envisioned ourselves in Netflix documentary watching big wave surfers taking on 100 foot waves. And made a mental note to come back in the winter to catch this experience.
But a spur of the moment Airbnb reservation led us to a small town that left a lasting impression. We arrived in Odeceixe just in time for sunset and found ourselves at a casual beach bar with tiki umbrellas and bright blue tables. Our server greeted us with a warm smile and we quickly kicked off a conversation about our travels. Turned out he was on vacation too.
Our server was once a part owner in this small restauarnt we were sitting in and had come back to visit his old business partner and friends on holiday. While he was enjoying drinks with friends two tables over, he was also helping out the kitchen’s staff by taking our order. We chatted about his adoration for this region of Portugal and other places he had lived throughout Europe. When he mentioned his love for San Sebastián, we were excited hear more given it coming up on our itinerary. His voice perked up and insisted that we had to try the gilda on the menu, a local San Sebastián tapa that the restauarnt serves up as tribute to his short time there. Small toothpicks were pierced into a braid of yellow peppercini, green olives and a sardine. I don’t know what was better, the burst of juice or the punch of saltiness with this bite. Afterwards, the Portuguese clams immediately captured our interest and came highly recommended by our server. This traditional dish of clams was cooked in white wine and butter with a large serving of parsley atop. The result was a creamy, rich sauce covering warm clams, ready to be slurped.
The sun set over the white sand while we devoured the clams and Michael enjoyed a Superbok, a local Portuguese beer. We relaxed into the evening and watched golden hour fade into a warm summer night. When we were ready to pay, our server swiftly brought over the credit card reader but we soon stumbled into a problem. The Wi-Fi was down, inhibiting us to pay with a credit card. And we didn’t have cash - rookie mistake. Instead of panicking, and making failed attempts to reboot the network, our server asked for our email address and said we could mail him cash once we had it. WHAT! Michael and I were both blown away with how relaxed our server had been and the level of trust he exuded. In that moment, it felt like we were part of this small town. We ended up downloading PayPal the next morning and paying him over the app rather than mailing him cash. All the same, it was a level of trust we can’t stop talking about.
Another remarkable level of hospitality took form in baked goods. I’m not entirely sure if this is Portuguese common practice or if the gluten gods had blessed us, but every host during our road trip welcomed us with a fresh loaf of bread. Starting in Boquerios, a hefty bun was rolled up in parchment paper and placed in a basket with other artisanal goods. The bread was still warm to the touch creating the perfect pairing to dinner that first evening. It was a small gesture that didn’t go unnoticed. And then it happened again and again as we made our way down the coast. Our hosts would describe it as a welcome treat, and I was overfilled with the fresh, fragrant smell that released when opening each brown bag. We didn’t let a single loaf go to waste. Every bite was porous and pillowy. Paired with local olive oil and a splash of balsamic, I was completely gratified.
In all, we spent five days driving down the coast of Portugal and experienced some magical places along the way. As we reached our final destination, future plans were already formulating. From the coastal towns we’d visit again to the surf we’d see in Nazare, we’re confident we’ll be back. There’s just no denying the laidback nature and ethereal beauty of this country.
