The Caves of Milos
The most pristine waters I’ve ever seen.
Slightly-melodic, slightly-annoying alarm pings began to fill the air at 7 AM on a warm Friday morning in Milos, kicking off the start of a highly anticipated day.
I popped out of bed, athirst for what was in store. Long lists of “things to do in Milos” were created and stack-ranked in the previous months but I was certain that we had to see this adventurous island by boat. Windy weather conditions from earlier in the week pushed our boating trip to delay to our very last day. That didn’t deter our excitement. We hopped on our ATV (I death-gripped the silver handles) and we were off towards the southern end of the island.
The warm breeze on my face and soft greens of the landscape melted my ATV tension and I found myself reflecting over our time on in Milos. There was already so much to love about about the island. Expansive volcanic terrain, secluded coves with warm waters, and long stretches of pristine beaches attract many to Milos. But the landscape felt untouched, only being impacted by the waves crashing along the coastline. We spent our first four days exploring every nook we could access via ATV. I thought back to the ladder we descended to discover a beautiful bay at Tsigrado Beach and the afternoon we swam around prominent rocks formations at Fyriplaka Beach. Small boat towns like Mandraika and Firopotamos were quaint with white-washed homes and pastel-colored accents. Amidst some crowds, it had been easy to find tranquility and calmness on this island.
Continuing down the windy hills towards our boating destination, it was impossible not to reflect back on our food experiences as well. Compared to our time in Santorini, Milos felt like an authentic taste of Greek tradition that residents took tremendous pride in. At one of our favorite restaurants on the island, O! Hamos! Tavern, we received hand written menus that detailed the story behind the restaurant and how their team continues to source and feature local ingredients. We were so taken with the food and story, we asked to buy the ceramic cups. At the bakery Kivotos ton Gefseon, we tasted the pastry chef’s culinary passion in each gooey baklava bite. Sun dried fish, moussaka, fava, and local cheeses were just a few items etched on every menu and the dishes simply delicious. The labor and love for food on this island was so distinct and it captured our affection, drawing us further into further awe.
The island had quickly risen to one of my favorite places we’ve visited and I was elated to cap off the trip with time on the water. Suddenly, I snapped out of my daze to a view of Agia Kiriaki beach from the top of a hill and saw small boats drifting along the water. I was ready for the day. At 8:30 AM, our skipper met us with a warm smile and a small 7.2M boat. As he held the boat steady, we quickly hopped in and took our place at the front. The shoreline started to become faint, expanding greatly across the horizon, and I took in the beautiful blends of the white and orange sandstone cliffs against the changing blues of the sea. We settled in and enjoyed a relaxing cruise along the southern Milos coast.
Our first stop on our ride was Kleftiko, a small bay with various natural sea caves on the southwestern tip of the island. Kleftiko is a well known destination for any traveler coming to Milos, so as we started to see jagged domes come into view, we were shocked to be the only boat on the water. White volcanic rock arches towered over the emerald green waters and small dark caves were carved out at the base. The quietness created a peaceful state that instantly felt special. We stood at the front of the boat, taking in the pristine beauty. Then Michael plunged in. I followed shortly after, my splash making the only sound in the calm waters. There were a few dark arched caves ahead so we leisurely swam towards them. As we got closer, the water became cooler and echoes of the waves grew louder. We could not get over that we had this entire place to ourselves. The natural ebb and flow of the sea allowed us to float around the cave while we took in the beauty of the jagged rock carvings from above.
The view from below us was equally captivating. Crystal waters yielded a perfect view of the sea floor, covered in smooth boulders and sparkling pebbles. When we submerged back into the sunlight, we saw dozens of boats slowly making their way to the bay. There was a livelier chatter in the air and at that moment I realized how special the calmness we experienced was. It was remarkable to take in this special place with no one around.
Our skipper was quick to hustle us into the boat and head to the next cave in the Kleftiko area. When we arrived, we were again one of the only boats there. He jokingly asked if we were afraid of the dark and I would soon learn why. We approached two caves and he instructed us to swim through the one on the right. Taking another plunge into the water, we started to make our way towards a small sliver in between the white stone. As we came closer, I saw a long stretch of pure darkness. I timidly swam forward, blaming murder podcasts and twisted Netflix documentaries for my slight apprehension. The cave was eerie, but you could still make out the beautiful spiked arches above. It added a bit of a dramatic flare. Then we popped out at a totally different bay, with boaters cruising by. We saw a natural bend toward the left and started to swim through a new cave. This one was shallow and we started to walk up to a private pebble beach and saw our boat in the distance. We took in the views of the cave from the opposite side, admiring the stark edges created from rough waters. We began to notice boats heading our direction, so we swam back to continue on.
Our last two stops were long stretches of beach, only accessible by boat. Each time we docked, we jumped into the water - beverage in hand - and swam to the shoreline to take in the views of the sea. Smooth white rock formations towered over us creating a remarkable quietness that was peaceful. We sipped chilled beer and soaked in the final moments of our boating trip. It was an unforgettable experience. Culinary discovery has been a trademark throughout our travels so far but the immaculate waters and magnificent landscape will be what we cherish on this island.
