A Tribute to the Lisbon Sardine
Pop the can.
My introduction to the sardine may not have been in Lisbon, but my true adoration and undeniable craving developed inside the tiled tascas and pastel restaurants of this hilly city. And now I find myself scouring every menu, in hopes to have another small, salty bite. While the simplist plates permeated with acidic perfection, I was most impressed with all the creative preparations Lisbon chefs showcased around the city.
Canned
Canned fish is a dominant force along the interior aisles of grocery stores, but I usually only throw one in my cart if I’m making Alison Roman’s caramelized shallot pasta. When we arrived in Lisbon, we quickly realized there was a craze for canned fish, most notably the sardine. As we walked by numerous shops showcasing hundreds of cans along the windows, it was indisputable that Lisbon took canned sardines seriously and no one exemplified this like Miss Can in Alfalma. This petiscaria used wild-caught fish from Portugal’s seas to create small delicacies served straight from the tin. We grabbed a cafe table just outside the restaurant and our server came with a small menu showcasing the infamous sardine, marinated in three different ways: traditional, spicy, and spicy with pickles. I couldn’t pass up the spicy flavor with pickles - a powerful punch of chili oil blended harmoniously with a tangy pickle flavor? That’s my jam. A small plate arrived with thick sardines drenched in glimmering oil and the first taste was all that I had hoped for. The authentic flavor of sardines was still pronounced but it was elevated with that spicy, tangy flavor from the oils. The fish was chewy as most know it to be but there was a freshness in the sardine that we hadn’t experienced with other canned bites.
*While this is all about the sardine, I would like to note that we also ordered the canned stuffed squids and they were a true standout. This was a traditional preparation that stuffed the squid with chopped tentacles, vegetables, and rice. Yum.
Filet’d
O Vinhaca was an unassuming tasca in an alleyway that knew how to wow a crowd. The small traditional tapas establishment had a total of ten tables and dim lit lighting. You might even miss it while walking down the street. We took a seat and squinted at the menu that was scribbled on a chalkboard in the distance. It was no surprise that the sardine dish jumped out from the tiny handwriting. When it arrived, we were delighted to a completely different preparation. The sardine had been sliced and filet’d into a thin, flat piece of fish. The saltiness was still prevalent but there was a softness in the texture of the sardine that made each bite smooth. Dried herbs were sprinkled on the filet which provided an earthiness to the flavor. And the dollop of pickled onions atop balanced out the dish with a punch of acidity.
Sautéed
As we spent more time in Lisbon, we continued to discover new ways the sardine could be elevated. We were finding that chefs could completely manipulate the traditional chewiness and present a sardine dish that was delicate and complex. On our last night in Lisbon, we ordered a beautiful representation of this at A Nossa Casa, a cozy Brazilian restaurant in Barrio Alto. Four long sardines had been sautéed creating a softness that you would find with sea bass. When it arrived, you could smell the harmonious blends of fish and vegetables. Scoops of diced bell peppers had been caramelized to brighten the delicate fish flavors. Bits of seaweed enhanced the taste of the ocean and it was topped with an onion mousse that was rich and savory. If I had done a blind tasting, I would have thought this was a white fish - it was that flaky.
A week of sardines in Lisbon wasn’t enough but these tasty bites will inspire our cooking routine for years to come. Should we buy a fish canning machine? Michael and I are weighing our options and will keep you posted. But until then, we will forever cherish the traditional salty sardine as well as the new preparations that captured our hearts.
With love,
The Epstein’s
