Best Bites in Athens
Beyond the archaeological wonders.
Some Greek dishes are simply iconic. We saw them scribbled on chalk menus hanging outside taverns and raved about by every server we spoke with. Traditional recipes passed down generations continued to be served with pride and passion. From decadent moussaka to mezze plates with sticky dolma and roasted eggplant, the dishes we were familiar with from the states continuously exceeded our expectations. But what really surprised us were the authentic Greek dishes we were introduced to for the first time. Of all the places we visited in Greece, Athens brought culinary discoveries that truly stood out. The bites we had during our time in this bustling city were enough to make me want to visit again and again.
Street food
The street food in Athens was flooded with pitas, sauces, dips, and meats all beautifully concocted into a perfect takeaway bite. The ingredients came together in form of pies, gyros, wraps, and so much more. When we got to Athens, we were unsurprisingly hungry so headed out to the graffiti-lined streets in search of Feyrouz. Sitting in a tightly wrapped piece of parchment paper, a lahmacun wrap was handed to me from across the register. With origins from Istanbul and Levantine traditions, hand kneaded sourdough had been rolled out into a thin strip and lavishly sprinkled with za’atar, a family of seasonings including sumac, sesame seeds, and many other spices. It was then baked, creating a crunchy herbed layer and then stuffed with tabbouleh, sliced veggies, and hummus. The first bite was sensational. The baked herbs provided a mouthwatering crunch with strong flavors of thyme and nuts. Slightly roasted vegetables presented a perfect softness in texture and juiciness in flavor. The homemade hummus tied the entire wrap together, creating unity across all the ingredients. It was by far been my favorite street food bite I’ve had during our time in Europe (and further solidified our upcoming travels to Turkey in November).
Our street food discoveries didn’t end there. Each day we found some standout items in unassuming establishments, some of which were:
Falafellas: The falafels were dense and soft, which paired well with the vegetables and sauces it was wrapped up in.
Kostas: Their secret pita ingredient was a mild chili sauce that coated the pork and accentuated the flavors. It was so good we forgot to get a pic.
KORA: Not sure this would qualify as street food but we bought a loaf of sourdough from here and it was one for the books. Porous, buoyant, and soft with a crunchy crust.
Το Κουλούρι του Ψυρρή - This buzzing bakery was known for their koulouri, a braided pastry similar to Jerusalem bagels. It was thin and slightly crispy with a nutty sesame seed taste.
Seafood
Dishes like octopus and mackerel were always recommended as a restaurant’s specialty and I was captivated by the simplicity of these dishes during our time here. However, our last evening in Athens exposed us to different Greek seafood dishes we had yet to try. We ventured out to Kountouriotika, a neighborhood outside the main drag, with seafood on our mind. Psarochori was an oyster bar and restaurant that captured our interest early on so we were excited to cap off our trip in Greece with some fresh fish.
Fish roe had been presented as a mezze dish countlessly on menus throughout our time in Greece but we wrote it off as a dish that wasn’t deemed as a Greek staple. My mind immediately went to the small orange eggs found in Asian dishes and it didn’t quite make sense on Greek menus to me. However I hadn’t realized that what was written as “fish roe” on menus was actually referencing a traditional Greek mezze dish taramasalata made from cured white fish roe, olive oil, lemon, and grated onion. Our server greeted us with a plate of olives, long crouton chips and small bowl filled to the brim with a creamy white dip. When we asked what was in the small bowl, we were surprised to learn it was fish roe. One bite in had us hooked. The soft, grainy textures engulfed in a velvety spread reminded me of the best version of overnight oats. Except savory and packed with an umami flavor. The dip spread smoothly over the chip and the fishy flavor and cream melted into the crunchy ridges. It was delicious.
Eel was another commonly seen dish that we hadn’t bothered to try until our last evening here. I like eel in sushi but I’ve never thought to order this as a stand-alone filet. Our server described it as a house-made specialty which convinced us to order it as a main. A slightly pink filet arrived at our table, glistening with glaze. Beetroot purée and lemon accoutrements created an easel of bright colors on the plate. I couldn’t help but think about a perfect piece of pork belly when I took my first bite. The eel was dense and rich like pork, but melted and oozed with a light fishy flavor.
Traditional Meats
Slow roasted lamb comes to mind anytime I think of traditional Greek meats but eating at Karamanlidika gave me a surprisingly new appreciation for the cured meats and charcuterie plates in this region. Karamanlidika was a well known deli shop and mezze eatery specializing in preserved meats. The restaurant pays homage to the Karamanlides, a native group from central Anatolia who were namely responsible for cultivating traditions around curing and drying meat in the region. We were unsuccessful at making a reservation online so we decided to test our luck and walk by one evening. A restored neoclassical building was bustling with guests seated around small bistro tables. As we peaked into the restaurant, a large deli was positioned in the very center where servers stayed busy slicing an array of delicacies and prepping small plates. When we asked for a table for two, we were guided through multiple floors until we reached a quaint rooftop garden, where we would be having dinner.
We were greeted with delicate cured meat sliced thinly on a piece of parchment paper. Each piece slowly dissolved into my mouth, unlocking a salty rich flavor. It’s up there with any cured meat I’ve ever tried. After contemplating the menu, one dish stood out to both of us: pelmeni pasta. It was described as a sausage tortellini covered a tomato yogurt sauce. The dish sounded simple and we like how it incorporated one of the restaurants famous meats with others traditional Greek ingredients. Without skipping a beat, we ordered it.
A small sauce pan arrived in front of Michael with tantalizing aromas of meat and cream. Beautifully aligned pelmeni dumplings lay across the pan, drizzled in a tomato oil and a thin yogurt cream. Touches of paprika and dill sprinkled across the top and we couldn’t wait to try. The sausage swaddled in the pasta noodle was divine. Salty juices bursted with each bite and united perfectly with the sauce, making this one of our favorite meals in Greece.
Michael paired this with ouzo, a local favorite liquor, and we cheer’d to an incredible culinary ride through Athens.
