The Do’s and Dont’s at Bar Nestor
How to experience the infamous Spanish tortilla.
Bar Nestor is a culinary icon in San Sebastián, the Celine Dion of Basque Country pintxos if you will. Nicknamed the holy trinity, the restaurant serves three iconic dishes - tomatoes, peppers, and steak - which are a magnificent representation of classic Basque Country cooking. Then there’s the tortilla, an omelet that just might be the best in Spain. The family-run restaurant only makes two tortillas a day, one for lunch and one for dinner. Each tortilla is carefully crafted into a majestic pie and cut into 12ish slices. While luring in many hopeful patrons, only a special few get to revel in the flavors.
Getting into Bar Nestor AND securing a piece of that tortilla became our mission during our time in San Sebastián. But we had no idea the great lengths we’d go to consume this plate of eggy goodness. Recounting this experience, both slightly dramatic and completely true, is best done through the do’s and dont’s of trying to get into Bar Nestor.
Let’s start with the Dont’s
Don’t underestimate the tortilla line
The establishment opened at 8 PM each evening for dinner so we planned to stop in on our first night at 7:15 PM. We didn’t fully understand the process but knew people got there early to for the tortilla. Dinner reservations didn’t matter. If you wanted the tortilla, you waited in line.
It’s important to note that a 7:15 PM dinner time is embarrassingly early for Spanish standards, who typically indulge starting at 9:30 PM. This elevated our confidence. We figured that arriving this early would guarantee a tortilla and a table. Quickly we learned just how naive we were. We strolled up to restaurant’s window at 7:14 PM where a manager was standing stocking up the bar. When we asked about making a reservation for the tortilla, he let out a brief chuckle. The tortilla was already sold out for the evening. He explained that the restaurant started taking orders around 7 PM and it was spoken for within minutes. If we wanted to get in, we needed a new strategy.
The next evening, we arrived at 6:30 PM. A line of 10ish people snaked its way down the buildings, but we were hopeful. Knowing that each tortilla had approximately 12 slices, we hopped in line, anxiously awaiting the infamous list. Unfortunately, luck wasn’t on our side. As promised, the queue started moving at 7 PM - one hour before opening. It moved quickly but by the time we were at the front, the tortilla was sold out. Again.
Don’t give up
The pain! The dismay! Our confidence was shaken and doubt began to seep into our veins. But ever determined, we made one last attempt to come back on our final day. This time for lunch.
We got there at 11:15 AM for a 1 PM opening. Some might laugh at our aggressive actions but it was a success. Third time’s a charm, right? We showed up fourth in line and successfully reserved a portion of the tortilla. We then waited patiently for the restaurant to open, with Michael running to grab coffees to kill the time. At 1:00 sharp, our name was called by the host and we were greeted into Bar Nestor.
And now the do’s
Do get excited about the tortilla. It’s worth the hype
The establishment lit up with energy as soon as we stepped inside. Generations of family photos were plastered along the walls and trinkets from all over the globe decorated the bar. Two glasses of Txakoli were poured from the bottle as we slid towards the bar. We stood with anticipation.
It wasn’t long before excitement spread like wildfire as Mr. Nestor came out. There was the infamous tortilla. It looked like a deep dish pizza as he held a white plate over his shoulders and plopped it down on the bar - right in front of us.
He had an entire method for cutting this one tortilla. The butter knife pierced into a corner, creating imperfect triangular pieces scooped onto each plate. A thin egg film held together a chunky sauce of potatoes, onions, and warm juices from the ingredients. There was a softness to the egg layer that was quite incredible. We’re not entirely sure how Mr. Nestor achieved the perfect buoyancy of the egg but we didn’t dare question it. Names were called out and one by one and the tortilla was presented to elated guests. That golden filling bursted with flavors. Some bites would entail pieces of juicy onion. Others would be enriched with a starchy film of potato. A brief silence filled the restaurant as everyone ate with immense satisfaction.
Do stay for the steak
The silence didn’t last long. The swirl of wine pouring into glasses and forks hitting the tables created a vibrant melody. Delighted guests gleamed from the flavors and tortilla slices slowly vanished from plates. We ate slowly, trying to savor each bite. As the salty aromas of the tortilla faded, some guests started to close out and leave. But Bar Nestor was just getting started. Shortly after plates were cleared, a small army of servers came out, with the leader of the pack holding raw steaks. The steak man approached us and Michael immediately pointed to the largest slab. He nodded and swiftly disappeared into the kitchen as plates of tomatoes appeared. Bright, red chunks filled each dish and were drenched in olive oil and vinegar. It was a delightful course to cleanse our palates.
Salty smells of meat began to coat the air and waft into the main dining area. Cast iron skillets began to march out with blood rare steaks of meat sizzling. We watched as the meat cooked in front of us and were able to move it around the cast iron to fry the perfect crispness. This dish was served with a side of blistered padrón peppers that added the perfect spice to a rich, umami piece of meat.
Do plan to lay horizontal for several hours after
After our two hour experience at Bar Nestor, we left immensely satisfied and exceedingly full. It was a meal we will never forget. The need to lay down after is also something we’ll never forget. So it’s very important to head to the beach and to sleep off your food coma right afterwards. It was the perfect ending to our time in San Sebastián.
