Home on the Sicilian Coast
Celebrating traditional Sicilian culture and cuisine.
Honey-toasted hills rise from the Tyrrhenian Sea and create gentle waves in the sky. We follow a road wedged in between the valley as we head toward our next adventure - two days at Casa Migliaca, an agritrurismo off the northern coast of Sicily.
To boost the economy in the early ‘90s, the Italian government encouraged farmers to convert part of their property into bed and breakfasts and Casa Migliaca was one of the first farms to partake. For over 30 years, this boutique farm stay - commonly known in Italy as an agriturismo - has welcomed visitors from all over the world into their home. And we couldn’t wait to soak in this special experience. Far from how I envision a farm - roaming cows, stacks of hay, etc - we arrived to a rustic cottage surrounded by pine trees and filled with traditional, cozy charm.
The serene farm has a rich history in olive oil production dating back centuries. Tucked away on a hill overlooking the sea, we were greeted by our host and property owner Luka in the Oil Mill Lounge centered around a large circular stone which was once an essential element to the production process. Right where we were standing, a large animal - think donkey or cow - would slowly drag the stone mill around to enhance olive oil extraction under the press. Above the table, the year 1651 was carved into the hinged wood beam, marking a small piece of the home’s history. After admiring the vintage furniture and antique artwork, we were led to the Old Palmetto room where a glass flooring revealed an old reservoir from the 17th century that had been discovered under the property. It’s thought to have been a storage vessel in the oil production process. Luka told us his parents found the reservoir during a remodel and hired an architect to excavate and ensure preservation. The space had been transformed into a quaint bedroom, where we we would be staying.
Once settled, we grabbed a chilled bottle of white wine and headed out to explore. Life bloomed in every direction on the property. Deep red and warm yellow flowers sprouted from the vines while rich greenery decorated the brown stone walls. The main house had an enchanting elegance and was perfectly positioned to overlook the valley between the Nebrodi Mountains and the Madonie Mountains. There were cafe tables sprinkled across the lawn and into the groves so guests could cozy up to the landscape. Original clay olive oil jars were scattered throughout the property that now acted as flower pots. So much care had gone into the preservation of this property that it felt like stepping back in time. We spent a lackadaisical afternoon strolling through the olive groves and citrus trees while slowly sipping the local wine. Soon the faint smells of garlic and onion started to bloom from the kitchen as we perked up with energy for tonight’s meal.
Stepping into the kitchen felt like we were visiting generations of this family’s past. The family kept a large oven intact toward the corner of the kitchen that was once used to heat the entire home during the winters. A collection of vintage plate sets and kitchenware were displayed in wooden cabinets which created a homey feel. We wandered around the space guessing where each piece might have come from. Intricate juicers, colorful porcelain cups, and dozens of Italian moka pots made the space a playground for anyone who loves to cook. And we were elated to be dining at the center kitchen table in the space.
The dinner table felt like home. As soon as we sat down with Luka and his father Sebastiano, wine steadily flowed out of bottles as stories of Sicilian life began to unfold. Luka told us about his parents endeavor to restore the property back to a working farm and guest experience. He spoke fondly of his mother’s cooking and his father’s interior design work. Luka had also been a global traveler and we went down the rabbit hold of experiences around the world. Sebastiano held a warm smile and would become energized as we talked about our travels through Sicily thus far.
In true Italian fashion, the meal itself was an immersive experience. We were first introduced to Sicilian gnocchi, the perfect intersection between fluffy and chewy. Second - even third - helpings were highly encouraged so Michael and I thought this was the extent of our meal. It would have honestly been enough given how delicious each bite was, but of course it was only a primi. Shortly after the pasta bowl was licked clean, numerous plates of freshly grilled vegetables were laid out on the table. We tried eggplant and green beans that tasted like they were just plucked from the garden, plump and vibrant. Juicy slices of lamb were served and we finished dinner with multiple tastes of grappa.
Casa Migliaca left us completely enthralled. The hospitality and endearment of our hosts offered us a taste of something that felt like home across the globe. It was something I didn’t realize how much I needed - the ease of conversation over dinner, the family stories, and the coziness of the cottage. That feeling of home is sometimes hard to replicate while traveling and we were really grateful to experience a taste of it here.
