Eating like a Lyonnaise
The gastronomic capital of the world.
Famed for complex techniques, aesthetic preparations, and rich flavors, French cuisine has sealed its imprint across the world. And I simply cannot get enough. Butter bursting croissants and velvety duck are just a few delicacies that really get my tastebuds salivating. But when we got to Lyon, I was introduced to an entirely new meaning of French cooking.
The town’s culinary reputation dates back to the renaissance. This period brought extensive international trade throughout the country and, by chance, the small town of Lyon sat at the epicenter of France’s commercial region. As trade expanded during this period, Lyon residents began to incorporate global flavors into their traditional cuisine and developed a culinary culture that still beams with energy today.
Along with the outside influences, Lyon seamlessly blends northern and southern French flavors. Dishes of the north highlight a range of rich meats accompanied with rich cream sauces and loads of butter. The south emphasizes seasonal fruits and vegetables found growing throughout the rolling hills and valleys that amass the region. You pair those two together and BAM, hello lyonnaise cuisine.
The fantastic intersection of these influences and elements left us in awe. As I think back to our time here, I put an itinerary together that epitomizes the perfect day in Lyon. To no surprise, it’s completely orchestrated around food.
Start with a strong pour over and light yogurt
Controversial as it may be, I needed a break from the morning espresso. I knew it went against traditional European ways but I longed for something more acidic, fruity, and honestly anything over two ounces. I needed to smell the aroma of freshly ground beans saturated through a filter. Surprised by the lack of specialty coffee shops in Paris, we made it our personal mission to find the best pour over coffee in Lyon. Luckily we walked into Rakwe and our search was over. A mass of beans from around the world were presented in glass vases and strong bitter scents permeated the air. We quickly struck up a conversation with the owner who detailed the growing trend for speciality coffee in France. Turns out he was one of the primary bean distributors in the area and was passionate about all things coffee. We found seats on bean bags by the window and relished in a large cup on strong brew.
French yogurt was another dish I was captivated by and craved each morning as we left our Airbnb. It’s classically made in small batches and is famed for its purity in ingredients. With a thinner consistency and tangier flavor, it was the perfect way to start any day. At Fika Lyon, the granola bowl was presented with a large dollop of yogurt covered in a thin layer of homemade granola. On top, fresh peaches were thinly cut and interlaced with ribbons of apple and cubes of strawberries. Dried fruit was sprinkled in the granola to provide a chewy, sweet crunch. Texture-rich and tangy, this was a breakfast to never be forgotten.
Eat a very French salad
The salade lyonnaise is among the most famous dishes in Lyon. Chefs start with a small bed of greens and scoop over hefty portions of lardon (i.e. a fancy name for thick bacon bits) and croutons. Then a poached egg is delicately placed on top with a sprinkle of oil and seasoning. While this salad wont make the list for anyone’s diet, it was an indulgent not be missed. At Bouchon Thomas, the salad was a true standout. As I cut into the egg, the yolk created a naturally rich dressing that blended with the olive oil. Each lardon was dense and the soft bites unlocked salty residues. The crouton added a crunchy element to compliment the juices perspiring from the other ingredients. Oh yeah, there was lettuce in there too.
End in a bouchon
Bouchons are the restaurant darlings in Lyon that serve traditional Lyonnaise cuisine. And it would be sinful to not experience one here. You can find 22 certified bouchons in Lyon, but not all are created equal. Some select their favorite for the ambiance or the wine, which all aid to the experience. But our criteria was purely based on one dish - the quenelle. These dense dumplings resemble a large, plump oval. They’re traditionally filled with a local fish called pike and lightly poached to perfection. This chunky dumpling is swadled in a creamy sauce, which we believe is the key to a standout dish. And no one executed quite like Le Bouchon de Cordeliers. The quenelle itself was dense but each bite had an airiness quality and a mildly fishy flavor. Now, the sauce. The lobster cream was puréed to a consistency that was similar to a thick bisque. It coated the quenelle to enhance the flavors without overpowering the dish. It was a kind of sauce I wanted to dip my fingers into. Again and again. For the sake of Michael, I did my best to refrain.
