Walking Through Dubrovnik
The pearl of the Adriatic.
Arriving around 9 AM, a car dropped us off at an arched opening leading us into the walled city of Dubrovnik. We sheepishly made our way up multiple flights of stairs, immediately questioning our choice of roller bags. After checking in, we decided to venture out to explore the winding streets, plentiful staircases, and unique crevices that were bounded by the large limestone walls. The beauty of the creamy white stone paired with the burnt red rooftops felt like we had stepped back into time. The old town was perfectly manicured and we were drawn to the baroque architecture of the churches and other medieval buildings.
Soon we were hungry. Our host recommended Barba, a local fish place just down the stairs from the hotel. We found it tucked in one of the narrow streets, swarming with others intrigued by the cuisine. Given the wait time, we decided to order and take our lunch to the marina and sit by the water. The octopus salad and small fish appetizer immediately caught our attention, so we eagerly ordered these items and sat amongst the crowds waiting for food. Once we secured our order, we made our way to the marina, filled with small boats docked and pedestrians walking along the promenade. After finding a sunny spot with a clear view of the water, we opened the first box filled with small white fish, fried in a light crunchy batter. One bite filled our taste buds with a tangy, fishy sensation. Paired with a creamy tartar sauce, it was tough to stop eating these bite-sized apps. Next up, the octopus salad. It was presented as a ceviche with fresh tomatoes, red onions, capers, and chunky octopus pieces. The juice of the tomatoes marinated the octopus to offer a light and refreshing taste. The two of us totally devoured the dish.
We continued our afternoon exploration, excited to discover more Croatian delicacies. Small streets winded their way around retail shops and large patio restaurants. Through a small hole in the walled city, we noticed an unassuming pathway that opened up to the sparkling blue water. With jagged cliffs just big enough to fit a small bar and some seats, we watched visitors jump into the warm sea and others slowly sip espresso. Boats leisurely drifted by this tiny cliff, and kayakers rowed their way towards the lush green island across the way. We popped our heads in for just a few minutes but immediately knew that we would be back.
The following morning, we packed a small beach bag and made our way to that cliff. We sat at a shaded table and ordered two espressos. Soft European music filled the warm air as we enjoyed a sun-filled morning in Dubrovnik.
I wasn’t prepared for the natural beauty that Dubrovnik was nestled in. The town is situated on rocky cliffs, colliding with majestic blue waters of the Adriatic Sea. Small coves and pebble beaches were hidden throughout the coast where there were pockets of seagreen waters. We knew these beaches would be the perfect way to escape the Old Town crowds and embrace the true coastal lifestyle. One afternoon, we decided to head to Sveti Jakov, a tiny beach cove with purple umbrellas overlooking Dubrovnik’s bustling town. We climbed our way up the coast’s rolling hills, passing by beautiful homes covered in pink flowers and lush greenery. Soon, we found ourselves at a dead end, standing in front of an old church. Michael pointed out a small road behind the church and we followed until it turned into a narrow set of stairs. Instantly we were greeted by glimpses of turquoise waters, white pebbles, and those bright purples beach umbrellas we were searching for. After a steep climb down, we found a spot, laid down towels, and soaked in the Croatian sun, occasionally taking a dip into the water.
We spent four nights in Dubrovnik, exploring the old town sites, walking on the wall that protects the city, and lounging by beaches tucked away from the crowds. I think it was the perfect amount of time to get settled, see the main historic sites, and venture out to less crowded areas. While tourism is extremely high, we loved the beauty of the Dubrovnik and were blown away by the warmth and happiness this town exuded.
Favorite bites
Barba - octopus salad, small crunchy fish
Bard Mala Buzabar - on the water, we ordered espressos and went for a morning swim
Taj Mahal - Bosnian dinner in old town, the cevapi and baklava were a must
Trattoria Carmen - cozy dinner; the octopus, seafood pasta and truffled shrimp pasta were great
Holy burek- spinach and cheese bureks (on the go snack)
Cogito coffee- pour overs and cold brew
Favorite things to do in Dubrovnik
Swim at Bard Mala Buzabar
Walk to Sveti Jakov Beach (3 mile round trip outside Old Town)
Dubrovnik wall walk
Climb up to Lovrijenac (St. Lawrence Fortress)
Sulic beach - just outside of the Old Town, lively beach, 2 small bars on cliff - Bar Dodo & Ala Mizerija
