This Week’s Meat and Greet
The meats of Slovenia, Austria, and Czech Republic
Our time in this region could be described as a gathering for all things meat, but if you’ve ever eaten with me you’ll know that I’m not always the biggest advocate for red meat dishes (that’s Michael’s realm). I lean heavier on the the sauciest, fishiest, sweetest items to satisfy my cravings. My meat-forward desire extends about as far my monthly ritual to Causwells in San Francisco, so there were many pep talks in the days leading up to our time in this region. I internalized my slight fear of an upset stomach and told myself that if there was ever a time to embrace the meat sweats, this was it.
While cow is the the meat de facto in the United States, I was blown away with the ever present diversity of protein’s throughout our time in Central Europe. I discovered how the consumption of meat was a culinary force symbolizing tradition and community across the region. Local preparations have been passed down by generation which made each bite taste a bit more special.
For Michael and I, this marathon of meat consisted of a three-week stretch across Slovenia, Austria, and Czech Republic. Here’s a breakdown of some fantastic dishes we encountered and devoured during our time through Central Europe.
Redefining raw meat
Okrepčevalnica Čompa: Ljubljana, Slovenia
Street art covered the buildings surrounding a small red wall, with Čompa painted in yellow letters above the door. With only a few cafe chairs outside, the setting could have been mistaken for a local pub to those just passing by. However, glorious smells of garlic and salt started to fill the air as we got closer, and I knew we were heading towards the right place.
As we opened our menus at Okrepčevalnica Čompa, the seasoned raw filets immediately grabbed our attention. Given my previous history with raw meat, I anticipated a classic tartare preparation with delicate pieces of thinly sliced meat bursting in flavor. Instead, an array of eight meat cubes were pristinely aligned across an elegant, white marble serving dish.
Each piece was the size of a large grape and permeated a bright purplish color and smooth texture that could have been mistaken for a fresh toro sashimi. Drizzled over each cube was a different sauce preparation: olive oil, spiced pepper, pistachio crumble, and avocado cream. The glimmer of these oils caught my eye and enticed my tastebuds. And then came the first bite - olive oil. We were surprised by the simplicity yet satisfyingly balanced taste. One bite transformed into an umami moment for my tastebuds.
Of the four sauces presented, I experienced complete culinary bliss with the spiced pepper preparation. The brash, woody flavors of the red reduction glaze saturated the tender meat and it was perfect. I’d go back to Ljubljana for many reasons, but this dish alone has me daydreaming of this quaint town.
Our first horse encounter
Mesarija Krušič: Ljubljana, Slovenia
Yes, that’s right. During our time in Ljubljana, we were presented the opportunity to try a local dish that was out of our culinary comfort zone. The sale of horse meat for consumption is illegal in the US, but once we learned about its prominence in Slovenian kitchens, we knew we had to give this a try.
Mesarija Krušič was a small butcher + bistro in Ljubljana that only serves horse across a variety of preparations. Upon arriving, we were greeted by a Slovenian woman and ushered into a small restaurant. Complimentary horse pate arrived shortly after we were seated. Spread like butter across pieces of porous, fluffy bread, the pate was lavished in mushroom notes. Combined with the creamy texture, it took us a minute to even process that this was horse. It was undeniably excellent.
We ordered grilled horse (salad for me, steak for Michael) after a quick recommendation by our server. Both dishes were prepared simply - grilled meat seasoned with salt and pepper. Rather than having a tough or gamey taste, the horse carried a sweetness and was far more lean when compared to even a venison. While not sure either of us completely rid our previously instilled notions on horse consumption, we left after fully clean plates.
That schnitzel crunch
S'Kloane Brauhaus: Salzburg, Austria
Name a meat and Salzburg could schnitzel it. Pork, mutton, turkey, boar, deer, veal, and chicken. We encountered many variations of schnitzel - a thinly sliced meat that has been flattened, tenderized, fried, and served with accoutrements. Don’t let the simple preparation fool you, schnitzel can be hard to get right. Quality of the meat and the type of oil are the two essential factors that enhance schnitzels, but it’s the coating and crunch that creates a purely irresistible dish. As we hunted for the best schnitzel that Salzburg could fry, there was one that reigned supreme over the rest - the turkey schnitzel at S'Kloane Brauhaus.
We arrived at a casual outdoor tavern enclosed in yellow walls and buzzing with locals. Our server was quick to ask for our beer preference (light or dark) and rush to the bar to fill up two mugs, which provided us a few moments to scour the menu. Shortly after we ordered, a flaky turkey schnitzel arrived. The color was golden, the meat was thin, and the flavor was juicy. But it was all elevated by that perfect buttery crunch. Evenly coated around the flattened bird, the crunchy ripples and nooks created a crispness of the crumb, which reminded Michael of a cornflake cereal. Amplifying the juiciness of the turkey, a dollop of cranberry reduction was scooped perfectly over a lemon wedge in the center of the schnitzel. Sweet cranberry notes and citrusy flavors from the lemon counteracted each savory bite.
Accompanied by a potato salad (with almost no mayo for Michael!), this dish left both of us immensely satisfied.
Commemorating the July Fourth ‘Dog
Balkan Grill: Salzburg, Austria
Arriving to Salzburg on 7/3, we reasoned there was no better way to celebrate the Fourth of July than finding the perfect sausage. Among all the food research that went into our time here, we (mostly Michael) knew Balkan Grill would be the best way to ceremonialize one of the greatest American traditions - Fourth of July BBQ.
Squeezed into one of Salzburg’s endless curved alleys, Balkan Grill served up five kinds of grilled sausages, only for takeaway. This kitchen was tiny, only fitting two people inside - one woman on the grill, the other in charge of the till and dressing the sausages. The simplicity of the menu paired with the efficiency of these women allowed Balkan Grill to manage lines of up to 40 people. We witnessed this firsthand when we mistakenly arrived at 1:00, but patience isn’t our strong suit so we left and came back at 3:00.
Biting into a flavorful sausage with the perfect amount of dark char doesn’t get much better and Balkan Grill’s #2 “Orginal Zwiebel & Petersilie, Senf, Gewurz” executed this immaculately. The sandwich included two thin sausages, seasoned with a curry powder and painted with a smokey mustard. On top, diced parsley and onion saturated the interior of charred bun. However unpatriotic this may be, it was arguably better than any hot dog I’ve had at Fourth of July parties and I will 100% be adding curry powder to any ‘dog moving forward. It was so good, Michael went back a second time.
Goin’ for goulash
U Kroka: Prague, Czech Republic
From the moment we set foot in Czech Republic, Michael made it his sole mission to find the the best goulash, a rich chunky stew common throughout the region. U Kroka was a simple Czech-style restaurant and bar that was founded in 1895, making it an OG for beef goulash and desirable establishment to quench this craving. After taking a metro out of the main Prague town, we found ourselves in front of an unassuming establishment on a small neighborhood street. Locals drank beer, puffing cigarette after cigarette on a nearby bench, and we saw bowls filled with simmering red broth on tables. With one dish in our minds, we were quick to order and waited with anticipation.
When the goulash came out, an intoxicating smell of oregano and onion filled the air around our noses. A bowl of thick stew hosted chunks of plump beef which fell apart at the touch of a spoon. Parsley flakes and red onion slivers speckled across the bowl which added bitter flavors to the dense and creamy stew. One bite could warm anyone’s soul. There was a depth of flavor that blossomed from hours of marination and resulted in a hearty, rich taste. As if this goulash couldn’t get any better, fluffy bacon bread dumplings came on the side which was the perfect scooping vehicle to lick the bowl clean.
Cafeteria-style meats
Kantýna: Prague, Czech Republic
When’s the last time you’ve walked into a cafeteria? It’s been a long while for me but that quickly changed when we stepped into Kantýna. The name translates to a meat canteen and we were intrigued as soon as we stepped through the chalk white entry way. A large circular room showcased various stations offering up an overwhelming amount of meat preparations. There was a raw station, a precooked station, a grill station, a sauce station, a beer station; the list goes on. This was a meat eaters paradise, and given the amount of drunk Czechs guzzling beer and tossing back shots, we knew we found the local spot.
Cards and pencils were handed to us so we could select what we wanted at each of these stations. Everything was in Czech (a good sign of authenticity) so I took it upon myself to find a table amongst the crowds while Michael handled the order.
A consistent theme of this trip (and our lives) is the over-order. Why eat only three dishes when you can try five? Within a few minutes, our table became filled to the brim with unctuous meats and mustards. The two items that deserve the most praise were the rumpsteak and sausage.The shredded rumpsteak was tender and fell of the bone making the need for a knife obsolete. The taste was similar to a slow-braised brisket with a distinctly Czech saltiness that I had a hard time putting my fork down. Next, the sausage was packed with spices and rolled into a delightful tube of flavor. Combining this bite with the mustard and large .5 L mug of pilsner, this was true Czech nirvana.
The world’s best burger
Naše Maso: Prague, Czech Republic
The wagyu burger at Naše Maso in Prague is officially up for the ‘best burger ever’ award in our book (competing with my Causwells staple and Michael’s irrational love of In-N-Out.) Burger wants and needs are different for everyone. I want a thin, medium-rare patty topped with some fresh tomatoes, crunchy pickles, and onions. And lot of sauce. The bun should be crisply toasted, allowing the burger to hold through meal. A creamy rich cheese that fuses the patty and the bun is a special touch.
There is an art to layering of these ingredients and securing the flavors into one juicy bite. And Naše Maso was a local butcher in Prague that mastered this art. The wagyu beef was slightly seared and came out in a perfectly pink color. Dijon mustard and pickles layered the burger bounded by a thick bun that was saturated from the ingredients. All of these flavors synchronized superlatively in one bite and the burger maintained its shape integrity, without falling apart. My only complaint was that it was too small for Michael and I to share.
I will note that during our three weeks throughout Slovenia, Austria, and Czech Republic, our meat consumption greatly expanded outside these top bites above. I can’t put into words how excellent some of the other dishes were, so I’ll let these photos take you on a quick meat journey through Central Europe:
Against all odds, I was still able to fit in my usual cravings. Here are a few things we ordered that paired quite well with our meaty adventures in this region:
